18 May

Exploring multishaft design sampler

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0020

Title Exploring multishaft design sampler

Structure Straight twill

Reference

  • Dixon
  • Inouye, Bonnie. 2016. Exploring Multishaft Design. 2nd Ed. (Working version, Ch. 1-3.)
  • Loomy Tunes, Selvedges!
  • West

Concept Weave along with Bonnie’s manuscript, try Dixon selvages and finishing techniques from West

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 12 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • Bockens 8/2 cotton, natural
  • Sett 24 epi
  • Ends 200 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 4 meters
  • Width in reed 8.5 in

Weft

  • Bockens 8/2 cotton, varied colours

LJ0020-01 LJ0020-02 LJ0020-03 LJ0020-04LJ0020-05 LJ0020-06 LJ0020-07LJ0020-08

Dixon selvages Tuesday Weavers (Loomy Tunes) explained it. Never quite worked it out in Dixon’s book.

Calculations

  • Warp 202 threads
  • Raddle – 40 slots * 5 threads = 200 (but do 6-4-6-4…)
  • Reed 2 per slot except Dixon selvage

LJ0020-01 Incorporating straight lines in tieup, an area of plain weave, longer floats, point treadling. The pointy floats make an interesting raised effect.

LJ0020-02 Random tieup, fussy point treadling. Did a small bit without to compare but mostly used tabby (16/2 unbleached). Not much pattern discernable.

LJ0020-03 Same random tieup as previous, straight treadling, with tabby (16/2 unbleached). Again don’t see much pattern.

LJ0020-04 Different random tieup with a little curve in it, straight treadling, with tabby (16/2 black). From a distance the pattern is kind of cool.

Gary announced he liked these. From the top they all just look like random lines to me, but from an angle they are a bit more interesting. I also really want to see the backs of them. I think I should have used a black warp.

I have been playing with designs much faster than I can weave them. Random can work or it can be awful. I think importing the Keasbey treadling file I created a while back may help sort this out pretty quickly. I would like to create my own treadling file with more advancing twills. But for the moment the Keasbey file is enough.

Now I just need to sort out which of my babies to weave and which to delete. <sniff>

LJ0020-05 I think I got confused working from the liftplan and combined two treadlings. Lackluster, although it is (another) one that might suffer from white warp.

LJ0020-06 Second on this tieup. It looked really cool when I was weaving, but coming back to it, it is like the weft got completely sucked in and it is just a series of tied together warp threads. Weird. Big treadling mistake in this one.

LJ0020-07 Third on this tieup. Another somewhat unremarkable draft. It has a similar warp grouping as the previous one.

I learned my lesson and will isolate the treadling before weaving. I was really confused on the first two about which treadling I actually used. The point is to capture the details, not guess at them later.

LJ0020-08 Three treadlings on this tieup and all are unremarkable.

01 May

Crackle

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0019

Title Crackle

Structure Crackle

Reference

Concept Try crackle with BWM wool

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 12 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • BWM 2-ply, Iris
  • Sett 24 epi resleyed at 20 epi
  • Ends 370 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 3 meter
  • Width in reed 39.6 cm

Weft

  • BWM 2-ply, Maize and Pale Eucalypt

Strickler, #498

S-498-colors

sample

crackle

twill

20160517_091629

20160517_091640

Planning

  • BWM Classic 2 Ply – 36.0sts/10cm/2.75mm/2950m per 500g = 2927 YPP = 48.7 W = 24B / 33T
  • BWM Classic 3 Ply – 31.0sts/10cm/3.00mm/2000m per 500g = 1987 YPP = 40.1 W = 20B / 27T
  • Interlacements (68 * 2)/124
  • (48.7 * 124) / ((68 * 2) + 124) = 23.2 epi
  • 48.7 * .5 = 24.2 balanced
  • 48.7 * .67 = 32.6 twill
  • (124 * 2) + 2  / 24 epi = 10.4″ = 26.5 cm
  • (124 * 3 + 2) / 24 = 15.6″ = 39.6 cm

Initial sample

Very suspicious of these numbers. With the 3-ply, which isn’t that much different, I started with 12 epi and backed off to 10.

  • 15 * 15 = 225
  • 15 * 18 = 270
  • 15 * 20 = 300
  • 15 * 24 = 360

Did a tiny sample. The fabric is stiff but I like it. Will stick with 24 epi.

Dressing

This yarn did not want to slide over the lease sticks. Instead it kept trying to drag them over the back beam. I had to lock them together with shower rings and then hold them in order to get this beamed on. Now while threading I keep having to pick off balls of yarn that are holding the threads together. Hope the threads haven’t weakened to cause breakage later.

Also need to rig a better heddle jig.

Sampling

Have to open every shed. Learned that a knitting needle is good for this because it is long and smooth.

The initial attempt at crackle is deflected and weird looking and I don’t like it. To do: try again with blue tabby, research sett, potentially resley.

Tried some different tieup/treadling combinations that were better, especially the twill tieups. This may point to sett as a problem with the crackle, since I have sett for twill.

Extreme Warp Makeover

Resleyed at 20 epi. Started reading Wilson. Bumped  into Extreme Warp Makeover on the web, which dovetails with Chapter 3 on treadling variations. All kinds of things about blocks and weave structure started coming together. Right when the end of the warp is in sight.

Temple

Joanne Hall finally rubbed off on me. My (real) temple arrived. I have been using a makeshift temple for the last couple of warps. The jury is still out. It is a bother and it bites. It changed the nature of the badness of my selvages to loops, although that may be more related to the stickiness of this warp. It definitely changes the draw in; I can really see a couple of sections where I forgot to put it back on. What remains to be seen is if the edges are really better or just different. Need a few more warps behind me before I know. Also might be different with cotton.

Fringe twister

Used the fringe twister for the first time. Makes a very neat finish with the hemstitching. For future reference, Wilson has some excellent examples of different twisted fringe finishing techniques.

24 Apr

BWM cotton twill blocks

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0018

Title BWM cotton twill blocks

Structure Twill blocks

Reference

Concept Weave towels with new cotton yarn from Bendigo Woolen Mills

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 10 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • BWM 4-ply cotton: parchment
  • Sett 15 epi
  • Ends 221 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 3 meter

Weft

  • BWM 4-ply cotton: kiwi

Strickler #165, adjusted

LJ0018

Strickler #166, adjusted

LJ0018_2

Tieup 2-1-1-2-1-1

LJ0018_3

Keasbey treadlings

LJ0018_4

20160426_192638

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/33 sec, ISO100)

20160430_193736

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/78 sec, ISO80)

20160430_193826

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/117 sec, ISO80)

20160430_193856

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/98 sec, ISO80)

20160430_195454

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/17 sec, ISO500)

Samples

Tried two drafts on first sample. They had 5 thread floats which are too long with this large yarn. Also found a sleying error, so cut this sample off.

Played with the draft with the tieup files I made from Keasbey. Learned that tieups containing a ratio of 3 or more produced the long floats. Smaller ratios only had 3 thread floats, which is probably acceptable. Also experimented with Keasbey threadings and there are some interesting effects.

Weaving

For the rest of the warp I did three pieces: the three float block pattern, the five float block pattern and a Keasbey treadling sampler. I practiced hemstiching and tried a rolled hem on a cut-off bit.

Sett

Investigation

I used a sett of 15 from a Ravelry thread about BWM cotton for overshot and summer and winter. I think my sett is too low though. I’m not sure how to tell, but it feels a bit on the sleazy side.

Formulas

  • W = Number of wraps per inch = 0.9 * sqrt(YPP) [Ashenhurst rule]
  • S = Sett = (W * R) / (I + R) [Ashenhurst formula]
  • R = Number of warp ends in one repeat
  • I = Number of times the weft intersects with the centerline in that one repeat
  • Tabby: I = 2, R = 2; Twill: I = 2, R = 4
  • Heuristic
    • Balanced: 0.5 * W
    • Twill: .67 * W

Calculations

  • 670m per 200g = 1662 YPP [from BWM site]
  • W = 0.9 * sqrt(1662) = 36.7
  • S = (36.7 * 221) / (86 + 221) = 26.4
  • Twill = (36.7 * 4) / (2 + 4) = 24.4
  • Twill = .67 * 36.7 = 24.6

Conclusion

The sett should be 24 for this project.

10 Apr

BWM wool twill scarf

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0017

Title BWM wool twill scarf

Structure Plaited twill

Reference 

Concept Weave a scarf with new yarn from Bendigo Woolen Mills

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 10 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • BWM 3-ply: sweet pea
  • Sett 15 epi
  • Ends 148 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 2 meter

Weft

  • BWM 3-ply: lipstick, sweet pea
  • BWM 2-ply: maize, pale eucalypt, iris

Strickler #370, sampled others in #369-380 LJ0017_S370
TBD add photo of sample end

_DSC1715

NIKON D5200 (36mm, f/4.8, 1/60 sec, ISO100)

Sampled several different plaited twill patterns from Strickler. Not sure I would have picked this one had I woven a longer sample, as it has a ridge at the turning point that is a bit distracting. Added a bit of flair at the end with my 99¢ Lincraft novelty yarn (idea from Not 2 Square Weavers).

Still considering options for finishing the fringe end and the other end. Didn’t plan the beginning very well.

05 Apr

BWM wool 3-ply sampler

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0016

Title BWM wool 3-ply sampler

Structure Advancing twill

Reference

Concept Weave a sampler in advancing twill to test new yarn from Bendigo Woolen Mills

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 12 dpi reed, 10 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • BWM 3-ply: sweet pea
  • Sett 12 epi, resleyed at 15 (doesn’t make sense, must have been 10)
  • Ends 56 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 1.5 meter

Weft

  • BWM 3-ply: lipstick, sweet pea
  • BWM 2-ply: maize, pale eucalypt, iris

LJ0016
_DSC1704

NIKON D5200 (55mm, f/5.6, 1/60 sec, ISO100)

This advancing twill was the first draft I intended to weave on my new loom. That went by the wayside after it took _days_ to dress the loom. So now I have finally done it.

At 12 epi, the design is indistinct. The design part is stretchy like crepe, but the rest of the sample is stiff. Resleyed at 15, the design is more distinct but still stretchy. Not a pattern for wool. (Doesn’t make sense, because it got wider. Must have resleyed at 10?)

Before weaving, I explored quite a few drafts on this threading with different tieups from Strickler. I chose one that wove very unsuccessfully.

At the end, I also had some fun with network drafting from the Stossel and Inouye articles.

30 Mar

Twill sample

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0015

Title Twill scarf sample

Structure Elaborate point twill

Reference Strickler

Concept Weave a scarf in an elaborate twill pattern 

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 10 dpi reed, 8 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • Dark blue 8-ply acrylic
  • Sett 10 epi, resleyed at 8+
  • Ends 133 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 3 meter

Weft

  • Light blue 8-ply acrylic

Strickler #168 LJ0015_4S
_DSC1711

NIKON D5200 (36mm, f/4.8, 1/60 sec, ISO100)

Concept

I need to work in bigger yarns right now to be kind to my wrist. I thought I would weave a scarf for MIL who knitted me a nice lap throw for Christmas. She is allergic to wool, so I used some 8-ply acrylic I had on hand. I’ve been wanting to try out an elaborate pattern, so I picked one I had been eyeing in Strickler.

Pattern

The pattern was based on a draft in Strickler, but I see that something went wrong along the way when I manipulated it in PixeLoom. No matter, the pattern is okay. I used the optimise feature and the draft was reduced from eight shafts to four.

With big yarn the pattern was huge and I didn’t finish a full repeat in either sample. I was pretty sure I would hate two metres of this fabric.

Sett

The sett was too dense at 10 dpi, so I resleyed at 8 dpi (plus a little to use all the ends). This didn’t make much difference to the hand of a new sample. I realise I didn’t actually change the sett all that much, so it wasn’t worth the effort of resleying.

Outcome

There wasn’t much else could be done with this elaborate threading. It might have been okay with the same colour in warp and weft to mute the pattern, but the yarn was cheap and kind of disgusting to work with. Instead of buying more, I trashed the warp. Chalk this one up as a loss in the finished product column, but I learned a lot about patterns and sett. And yarn; I wouldn’t have gifted something in this yarn to anyone.

21 Feb

Waste sampler

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0014

Title Waste sampler

Structure Rosepath

Reference

Concept Weave a sampler with plastic bags and other waste material

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 10 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • White 3-ply acrylic
  • Sett 10 epi
  • Ends 144 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 3 meter

Weft

  • Miscellaneous leftovers, thrums and waste yarn
  • Plastic grocery bags

Rosepath threading, various treadlings from Strickler #103-144

_DSC1696

NIKON D5200 (55mm, f/5.6, 1/4 sec, ISO100)

_DSC1697

NIKON D5200 (55mm, f/5.6, 1/1.6 sec, ISO100)

_DSC1706

NIKON D5200 (18mm, f/3.5, 1/10 sec, ISO100)

_DSC1708

NIKON D5200 (55mm, f/5.6, 1/60 sec, ISO100)

_DSC1709

NIKON D5200 (55mm, f/5.6, 1/60 sec, ISO100)

Last green section is handspun yarn. :)
13 Feb

Cotton thrums

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0013

Title Cotton thrums

Structure M & W

Reference Ravelry, Thrum ball/skein WAL

Concept Weave with tied together thrums and other waste yarn

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 8 dpi reed
  • Stick shuttles

Warp

  • Black 8-ply cotton/acrylic blend
  • Sett 8 epi
  • Ends 80 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 1 meter

Weft

  • Misc cotton thrums and waste yarn

LJ0013
_DSC1756

NIKON D5200 (45mm, f/5, 1/60 sec, ISO100)

More fun!
03 Feb

Wool thrums

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0012

Title Wool thrums

Structure Bird’s eye twill

Reference Ravelry, Thrum ball/skein WAL

Concept Weave with tied together thrums and other waste yarn

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 8 dpi reed
  • Stick shuttles

Warp

  • Black 8-ply merino wool
  • Sett 8 epi
  • Ends 60 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 1 meter

Weft

  • Misc wool thrums and waste yarn

LJ0012 
_DSC1757

NIKON D5200 (45mm, f/5, 1/60 sec, ISO100)

_DSC1759

NIKON D5200 (45mm, f/5, 1/60 sec, ISO100)

Great fun!
03 Dec

Twill band

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0011

Title Twill band

Structure Twill

Reference Avalanche Looms, Things to Come

Concept Weave a narrow band after Susan’s Tape Without Measure.

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 12 dpi reed
  • Stick & boat shuttles

Warp

  • Bockens Bomullsgarn 8/2 Cotton in 504 (light grey) and 0000 (unbleached)
  • Sett 24 epi
  • Ends 48 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 2 meters

Weft

  • Bockens Bomullsgarn 8/2 Cotton in mixed colors

Straight draw, various treadlings

20151221_121846

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/17 sec, ISO250)

I’m not weaving. I don’t know if I’m allowed to. A narrow short warp magically appeared on my loom and sometimes I notice a few new picks.

I had help with winding the warp and some help with beaming, all mostly around knots and clips. I use these nifty clips from Ikea a lot in place of knots, but they are hard to open with one hand. I guess that’s a good thing actually.

bevara

I was able to do everything myself after the ties for the lease sticks were moved from the beater arm to the front beam. Threading with one hand was way easier than I expected, as were overhand knots (with plenty of slack).

Update, 25 December. That was all written before surgery. After, not so much… Back-slab splint off last week, trying to do more now. Very slow going.

Update, 2 February. Finally enjoying the weaving again and finished this endless warp. 🙂