30 Sep

Two patterns one warp

Advancing twill – echo and turned taquete – Bonnie’s Handwoven article – LJ0023 drafts

8/2 cotton, 300 ends, sett 32 (4*8)? Blue and orangy yellow and green on echo, grey on taquete – dyed taquete blue with tad of black

finished sept 30

29 Jun

Doubleweave

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0022

Title Doubleweave

Structure Doubleweave

Reference Moore

Concept Doubleweave

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 12 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • BWM 2- and 3- ply wool, maize and pale eucalypt
  • Sett 24 epi, resleyed to 15

Weft

  • BWM 2- and 3- ply wool, maize and pale eucalypt

This warp was never to be. Trouble beaming. Yarn very sticky. Ended up resleying at about half what was planned. Threading errors. Hate the colours. Hate how slow it is. I have a small sample of double width and tube, and I do mean small. It has been so long I don’t know what the TBDs in the post are any more and I’m not sure I can be bothered figuring it out before I snip, snip, snip.

Have not been idle though.

11 Jun

Echo twill sampler

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0021

Title Echo twill sampler

Structure Twill

Reference

Concept Try an echo weave on a straight draw with multiple tieups and treadlings

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 12 dpi reed, resleyed in 8 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • Bockens 8/2 cotton, #122 coral red and #476 mauve red
  • Sett 24 epi, reslyed at 32 epi
  • Ends 200 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 4 meter
  • Width in reed ~ 8 in, 6.5 when resleyed

Weft

  • Bockens 8/2 cotton, varied

First sample at 24 dpi.

20160613_111322

Calculations

  • Sley the raddle 4-4-4-4-8
  • Weaving width 200/24 = 8.33
  • Note finished width of previous sampler is 6.75

Drafts

  • LJ0021-1124, threadings 1-2, #105 yellow orange (8/2)
  • LJ0021-121112, threadings 1-2-3, #1460 dark olive (8/2)
  • LJ0021-2123, threadings 1-2-3, #130 petrol (8/2)
  • LJ0021-1124, threadings 3-4-11, #522 black (16/2)
  • LJ0021-121112, threading 4, #1296 grass green (8/2)
  • LJ0021-121112, threadings 5-6, #476 mauve red (8/2)
  • LJ0021-212111, threading 1, #1223 pearl grey (8/2)
  • LJ0021-212111, threadings 2-3, #122 coral red (8/2)
  • LJ0021-crackle-wilson, threading S&W paired, #138 blue (8/2)
  • LJ0021-221111, threadings 3-4, red chenille
  • LJ0021-221111, threading 7, #522 black (8/2)
  • LJ0021-inlay, pattern #105 yellow orange (8/2), ground #122 coral red (8/2)
  • LJ021-122111, #522 black (16/2)
  • LJ0021-122111-threading-shifted, #522 black (16/2)
  • Index cards, 49 patterns

Sett

Should have checked this before, but in my mind I’m doing the same thing I did last time. But it seems to be a bit sleazy. The interlacements are the same as last warp; they are all just twill. The sett is low for twill but, again, the same as last warp. The answer must be the grist of the yarn. Even though both warps were Bockens 8/2 cotton, the unbleached has more grist. Based on my highly scientific touch test.

I think I should cut off the samples so far and resley. Now I see a post on Ravelry where Bonnie recommends a sett between twill and double weave. I’m going to go for 32, which is right in the middle, and see what happens.

Both samples have really nice hand and the patterns show well. The patterns are probably a little more prominent on the closer sett. There are some interesting textures as well.

Weaving

After the larger pattern samples, I finished the warp weaving mostly single repeats from my index cards. I used them before I had my computer program, but after cleaning and reorganising my trolley I’m ready to toss them.

I ended up with 49 samples from index cards, some of which are wonderful. So I won’t be so quick to toss the cards until I make proper drafts of the good ones.

Looming thoughts

I’m back and forth between the AVL V-Series and the WDL. I’ll go see the Louet Megado if I decide on the V-Series, but I’m definitely leaning more AVL. I just keep thinking how there are (at least) a few more moves before we are settled and the WDL is made for being moved around. The V-Series could end up being a real pain.

I guess I can make do with 17 million sheds for a while.

18 May

Exploring multishaft design sampler

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0020

Title Exploring multishaft design sampler

Structure Straight twill

Reference

  • Dixon
  • Eva Stossel, Echo weave scarf in pastel colors
  • Furness, Suzy. 2014. “LEDs Can Light Up the Liftplan”. Complex Weavers Journal, no. 105.
  • Inouye, Bonnie. 2016. Exploring Multishaft Design. 2nd Ed. (Working version, Ch. 1-3.)
  • Keasbey
  • Loomy Tunes, Selvedges!
  • West

Concept Weave along with Bonnie’s manuscript, try Dixon selvages and finishing techniques from West

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 12 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • Bockens 8/2 cotton, natural
  • Sett 24 epi
  • Ends 200 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 4 meters
  • Width in reed 8.5 in (I now question this number)

Weft

  • Bockens 8/2 cotton, varied colours

Multiple

Dixon selvages Tuesday Weavers (Loomy Tunes) explained it. Never quite worked it out in Dixon’s book.

Calculations

  • Warp 202 threads
  • Raddle – 40 slots * 5 threads = 200 (but do 6-4-6-4…)
  • Reed 2 per slot except Dixon selvage

Weaving

I have been playing with designs much faster than I can weave them. Random can work or it can be awful. I think importing the Keasbey treadling file I created a while back may help sort this out pretty quickly. I would like to create my own treadling file with more advancing twills. But for the moment the Keasbey file is enough. Now I just need to sort out which of my babies to weave and which to delete. <sniff>

My record keeping has improved, I know what draft was used for most of the samples, but is far from where it needs to be.

I wrote a little console app to read the liftplan in a wif and feed it to me one shed at a time. Seriously good stuff. So simple. Got the idea from Furness. Maybe I can use my Raspberry Pi to add lights. 🙂

And now I have my computer right here, so no excuse not to make notes as I go along. (Ha, ha)

For the most part, I was unhappy with the light warp. Most of the designs would have been better on a dark warp, I think.

I’m not sure what I think about the hand of this cloth. I think the sett was a bit close, not much. I was surprised that the lighter thread (20/2) created a more distinct pattern than the 8/2, but Stossel used a heavier warp with lighter thread.

01 May

Crackle

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0019

Title Crackle

Structure Crackle

Reference

Concept Try crackle with BWM wool

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 12 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • BWM 2-ply, Iris
  • Sett 24 epi resleyed at 20 epi
  • Ends 370 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 3 meter
  • Width in reed 39.6 cm

Weft

  • BWM 2-ply, Maize and Pale Eucalypt

Strickler, #498

S-498-colors

sample

crackle

twill

20160517_091629

20160517_091640

Planning

  • BWM Classic 2 Ply – 36.0sts/10cm/2.75mm/2950m per 500g = 2927 YPP = 48.7 W = 24B / 33T
  • BWM Classic 3 Ply – 31.0sts/10cm/3.00mm/2000m per 500g = 1987 YPP = 40.1 W = 20B / 27T
  • Interlacements (68 * 2)/124
  • (48.7 * 124) / ((68 * 2) + 124) = 23.2 epi
  • 48.7 * .5 = 24.2 balanced
  • 48.7 * .67 = 32.6 twill
  • (124 * 2) + 2  / 24 epi = 10.4″ = 26.5 cm
  • (124 * 3 + 2) / 24 = 15.6″ = 39.6 cm

Initial sample

Very suspicious of these numbers. With the 3-ply, which isn’t that much different, I started with 12 epi and backed off to 10.

  • 15 * 15 = 225
  • 15 * 18 = 270
  • 15 * 20 = 300
  • 15 * 24 = 360

Did a tiny sample. The fabric is stiff but I like it. Will stick with 24 epi.

Dressing

This yarn did not want to slide over the lease sticks. Instead it kept trying to drag them over the back beam. I had to lock them together with shower rings and then hold them in order to get this beamed on. Now while threading I keep having to pick off balls of yarn that are holding the threads together. Hope the threads haven’t weakened to cause breakage later.

Also need to rig a better heddle jig.

Sampling

Have to open every shed. Learned that a knitting needle is good for this because it is long and smooth.

The initial attempt at crackle is deflected and weird looking and I don’t like it. To do: try again with blue tabby, research sett, potentially resley.

Tried some different tieup/treadling combinations that were better, especially the twill tieups. This may point to sett as a problem with the crackle, since I have sett for twill.

Extreme Warp Makeover

Resleyed at 20 epi. Started reading Wilson. Bumped  into Extreme Warp Makeover on the web, which dovetails with Chapter 3 on treadling variations. All kinds of things about blocks and weave structure started coming together. Right when the end of the warp is in sight.

Temple

Joanne Hall finally rubbed off on me. My (real) temple arrived. I have been using a makeshift temple for the last couple of warps. The jury is still out. It is a bother and it bites. It changed the nature of the badness of my selvages to loops, although that may be more related to the stickiness of this warp. It definitely changes the draw in; I can really see a couple of sections where I forgot to put it back on. What remains to be seen is if the edges are really better or just different. Need a few more warps behind me before I know. Also might be different with cotton.

Fringe twister

Used the fringe twister for the first time. Makes a very neat finish with the hemstitching. For future reference, Wilson has some excellent examples of different twisted fringe finishing techniques.

24 Apr

BWM cotton twill blocks

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0018

Title BWM cotton twill blocks

Structure Twill blocks

Reference

Concept Weave towels with new cotton yarn from Bendigo Woolen Mills

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 10 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • BWM 4-ply cotton: parchment
  • Sett 15 epi
  • Ends 221 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 3 meter

Weft

  • BWM 4-ply cotton: kiwi

Strickler #165, adjusted

LJ0018

Strickler #166, adjusted

LJ0018_2

Tieup 2-1-1-2-1-1

LJ0018_3

Keasbey treadlings

LJ0018_4

20160426_192638

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/33 sec, ISO100)

20160430_193736

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/78 sec, ISO80)

20160430_193826

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/117 sec, ISO80)

20160430_193856

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/98 sec, ISO80)

20160430_195454

SAMSUNG GT-I9300 (3.7mm, f/2.6, 1/17 sec, ISO500)

Samples

Tried two drafts on first sample. They had 5 thread floats which are too long with this large yarn. Also found a sleying error, so cut this sample off.

Played with the draft with the tieup files I made from Keasbey. Learned that tieups containing a ratio of 3 or more produced the long floats. Smaller ratios only had 3 thread floats, which is probably acceptable. Also experimented with Keasbey threadings and there are some interesting effects.

Weaving

For the rest of the warp I did three pieces: the three float block pattern, the five float block pattern and a Keasbey treadling sampler. I practiced hemstiching and tried a rolled hem on a cut-off bit.

Sett

Investigation

I used a sett of 15 from a Ravelry thread about BWM cotton for overshot and summer and winter. I think my sett is too low though. I’m not sure how to tell, but it feels a bit on the sleazy side.

Formulas

  • W = Number of wraps per inch = 0.9 * sqrt(YPP) [Ashenhurst rule]
  • S = Sett = (W * R) / (I + R) [Ashenhurst formula]
  • R = Number of warp ends in one repeat
  • I = Number of times the weft intersects with the centerline in that one repeat
  • Tabby: I = 2, R = 2; Twill: I = 2, R = 4
  • Heuristic
    • Balanced: 0.5 * W
    • Twill: .67 * W

Calculations

  • 670m per 200g = 1662 YPP [from BWM site]
  • W = 0.9 * sqrt(1662) = 36.7
  • S = (36.7 * 221) / (86 + 221) = 26.4
  • Twill = (36.7 * 4) / (2 + 4) = 24.4
  • Twill = .67 * 36.7 = 24.6

Conclusion

The sett should be 24 for this project.

10 Apr

BWM wool twill scarf

  • Concept
  • Details
  • Draft
  • Photo
  • Discussion

ID LJ0017

Title BWM wool twill scarf

Structure Plaited twill

Reference 

Concept Weave a scarf with new yarn from Bendigo Woolen Mills

Equipment

  • Louet Jane 40 (8-shaft table loom)
  • 10 dpi reed
  • Boat shuttles

Warp

  • BWM 3-ply: sweet pea
  • Sett 15 epi
  • Ends 148 threaded, 2 floating selvage
  • Length 2 meter

Weft

  • BWM 3-ply: lipstick, sweet pea
  • BWM 2-ply: maize, pale eucalypt, iris

Strickler #370, sampled others in #369-380 LJ0017_S370
TBD add photo of sample end

_DSC1715

NIKON D5200 (36mm, f/4.8, 1/60 sec, ISO100)

Sampled several different plaited twill patterns from Strickler. Not sure I would have picked this one had I woven a longer sample, as it has a ridge at the turning point that is a bit distracting. Added a bit of flair at the end with my 99¢ Lincraft novelty yarn (idea from Not 2 Square Weavers).

Still considering options for finishing the fringe end and the other end. Didn’t plan the beginning very well.